Mountaineering is a demanding challenge, and good preparation is the key to success. In this article, we guide you through the essential steps to succeed in your ascent, whether it's Everest or other peaks. From physical and mental training to risk management, as well as nutrition and logistical planning, each aspect is covered in detail. We also offer you tips on acclimatization and perfect timing to ensure a safe ascent in the best possible conditions.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. PHYSICAL PREPARATION.
Physical preparation for mountaineering, and especially for climbing Everest, is probably one of the most crucial elements of training. The physical demands of ascending such a tall mountain cannot be underestimated, and every aspect of physical fitness must be addressed with rigor. Here are the main points to consider:
Conditionnement cardiovasculaire
Everest requires exceptional endurance, as the effort extends over several weeks in extreme conditions. Good cardiovascular conditioning helps better withstand the constant physical stress, the thinning of oxygen, and accumulated fatigue. It is recommended to include in your training program:
- Running: Ideal for strengthening your heart and improving overall endurance. Alternate between long, moderate-paced sessions and high-intensity intervals to diversify your preparation.
- Mountain hiking with a load: To simulate real ascent conditions, go on hikes with a heavy backpack (15-20 kg). This will prepare you to face long days of climbing while carrying your gear.
- Cycling: Cycling, especially uphill, is an excellent way to build endurance while reducing impact on the joints. It also allows you to work on your lung capacity, which is essential at high altitude.
Regular practice of these activities, at least 4 to 6 months before the expedition, will allow you to achieve sufficient endurance for prolonged efforts at high altitude.
Muscle strengthening.
In addition to endurance, it is important to strengthen the key muscles that will be used during the ascent. The main areas to focus on are:
- Legs: Every step of the climb heavily engages the quadriceps, hamstrings, and calves. Exercises such as squats, lunges, and stair climbing with weights are essential for building leg strength.
- Core: A strong core is crucial for maintaining good posture and avoiding back injuries, especially when carrying a heavy pack. Exercises like planks, crunches, and Swiss ball workouts help strengthen the abs and lower back muscles.
- Back and shoulders: Pulling exercises (pull-ups, rows) help strengthen the upper back and shoulders, which are necessary for managing the weight of the backpack and handling climbing tools like ice axes.
Regular strength training sessions (2 to 3 times per week) are recommended to build functional strength that will support the physical demands of the ascent.
Acclimatization to altitude.
One of the greatest challenges of Everest is the body’s adaptation to the low oxygen pressure at high altitude. Gradual acclimatization is crucial to avoid altitude sickness, pulmonary, or cerebral edema, which can be fatal. Here are some recommendations to improve your tolerance to altitude:
- Climb high-altitude mountains: Before attempting Everest, climbing peaks between 6,000 and 7,000 meters (such as Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, or Denali) allows your body to gradually get used to functioning with less oxygen.
- Altitude training: If possible, participate in acclimatization camps by spending time living or training at high altitude before the ascent. This helps your body adapt to lower oxygen levels over the long term.
Acclimatization takes time and varies from person to person. A well-designed ascent program includes rest days and gradual climbs to allow the body to adapt smoothly.
Flexibility and MobilityFlexibility is often overlooked in physical preparation, but it plays a key role in preventing injuries. Uneven terrain and the need to climb or overcome rocky obstacles require optimal joint mobility. Here's how to improve your flexibility:
- Regular stretching: Include stretching sessions after each workout to improve the flexibility of your legs, back, and shoulders. This will make you more comfortable with the complex movements of climbing.
- Yoga or Pilates: These disciplines improve both flexibility and core strength, while promoting deep breathing, which is essential at high altitude. They also provide better body awareness, which is beneficial for handling technical terrains.
By incorporating mobility and flexibility exercises into your training program, you increase your resistance to injuries and improve your performance in difficult environments.
Thus, physical preparation for Everest must be comprehensive and structured, integrating endurance, strength, acclimatization, and flexibility training. This balance allows you to maximize your chances of success while minimizing the risks of injuries and excessive fatigue.
2. MENTAL PREPARATION.
Mental preparation is just as crucial as physical training when taking on a monumental challenge like climbing Everest. Faced with extreme conditions and the inherent risks of the mountain, strong mental resilience is required to handle the unexpected, manage exhaustion, and overcome moments of doubt. Here are two fundamental aspects of this preparation:
Stress and anxiety management.
Climbing Everest exposes mountaineers to extreme conditions that can generate stress and anxiety, particularly due to the intense cold, violent winds, oxygen deprivation, and cumulative mental and physical fatigue. Learning to effectively manage these stressors is crucial to avoid panic or psychological fatigue, which can severely compromise the safety and success of the expedition.Here are some methods to strengthen your stress management:
- Meditation: Mindfulness meditation can help you manage stress by teaching you to focus on the present moment, take a step back from negative thoughts, and remain calm under pressure. A few minutes of meditation each day strengthens the ability to stay composed in tense situations.
- Visualization: Visualization is a powerful technique used by many top athletes. It involves mentally rehearsing each step of the ascent, the challenges you might face, and most importantly, reaching the summit. By training yourself to visualize these scenarios, you condition your mind to respond positively to difficult situations.
- Controlled breathing: Deep and mindful breathing quickly calms the nervous system in moments of stress. At high altitude, where breathing is more difficult, mastering these techniques can also help you manage effort better and optimize your oxygen intake.
Developing these skills will not only help you manage moments of tension and anxiety during the ascent, but also strengthen your mental resilience in the face of the unknown.
Ability to withstand isolation.
Climbing Everest involves long periods of isolation, where solitude can heavily weigh on morale. Even when surrounded by a team, climbers often experience moments of introspection where the silence and vastness of the mountain intensify feelings of loneliness. The ability to manage this isolation is essential to avoid falling into demotivation or emotional distress. Here are some tips to better handle this mental aspect:
- Psychological preparation for solitude: It is important to mentally prepare for the idea that during certain phases of the ascent, you will have to rely solely on yourself. Solitude at high altitude can be overwhelming, but accepting and learning to appreciate it can transform this challenge into a moment of reflection and inner strength.
- Setting personal goals: Breaking the ascent into stages with clear objectives (reaching a specific camp, completing a day of climbing) can help you stay focused and motivated. These small goals are milestones that structure your progress and give meaning to each moment, even in times of solitude.
- Writing and introspection: Many mountaineers keep journals during their expeditions. Taking the time to write down your thoughts can help release tension and better organize your emotions. It also becomes a way to stay connected to yourself and give meaning to the experience.
- Team and guide support: While Everest imposes moments of solitude, the importance of your team's support should not be overlooked. Taking the time to share your feelings with other members of the expedition can strengthen group spirit and lighten the burden of isolation.
Training to endure isolation by immersing yourself in solitary experiences before the ascent (camping alone in the mountains, solo adventure trips) helps you better adapt to these moments during the climb.
Mental preparation is a fundamental pillar for a successful ascent of Everest. Learning to manage stress and control anxiety in extreme conditions, while developing resilience in the face of solitude, will help you overcome difficult moments. These psychological skills are indispensable for staying clear-headed and focused in such a hostile environment as Everest.
3. CLIMBING EXPERIENCE.
To attempt the ascent of Everest, solid experience in high-altitude mountaineering is absolutely necessary. Climbing the world's highest mountain requires navigating complex, unpredictable, and dangerous environments, where every decision can have a critical impact on the success of the ascent. Having a technical background and prior experience on high peaks allows you to acquire the necessary skills and learn to understand your limits in extreme conditions.
Escalade de montagnes similaires.
Before attempting Everest, it is highly recommended to have already climbed mountains between 6,000 and 8,000 meters. These experiences help you become familiar with the realities of high altitude, as well as the specific techniques for high-altitude mountaineering.Here are some mountains that offer ideal preparation:
- Aconcagua (6,960 m): The highest peak in the Americas, located in Argentina, is often considered a preliminary step to Everest. While it does not require technical climbing, it provides an opportunity to experience oxygen deprivation and develop mental and physical endurance at high altitude.
- Denali (6,190 m): This mountain in Alaska is known for its harsh weather conditions and freezing temperatures, making it an excellent training ground for the conditions found on Everest. Additionally, its technical nature, with snow and ice sections, helps refine climbing skills.
- Cho Oyu (8,188 m): This Himalayan peak is considered one of the most technically accessible 8,000-meter mountains. It is often used by climbers as direct preparation for Everest, as it allows acclimatization to extreme altitude while practicing climbing techniques on glaciers and steep slopes.
Climbing these mountains before tackling Everest not only trains your body to withstand reduced oxygen levels but also helps refine the management of fatigue, extreme cold, and critical decision-making under pressure.
Technical skills.
Everest is not just a high-altitude hike; it is a complex expedition that requires a mastery of advanced mountaineering techniques. Each part of the mountain presents unique technical challenges, from crossing dangerous glaciers to climbing steep slopes or navigating through deep crevasses. Here are the essential technical skills to acquire:
- Ice climbing: A significant portion of the Everest ascent, especially above 6,000 meters, takes place on glaciers and ice walls. It is crucial to know how to use crampons and ice axes to secure your progress and safely climb icy surfaces. Mastering the "piolet traction" technique is also essential for ascending steep slopes and ice walls, such as the famous Khumbu Icefall.
- Rock climbing: Although most of Everest is made up of ice and snow, there are also sections where you will need to climb rock faces, such as on the Lhotse Face or the summit ridge. Knowing how to climb mixed terrain, meaning combining ice and rock techniques, is a critical skill for progressing in these complex environments.
- Use of fixed ropes: Climbing Everest involves using fixed ropes, installed by experienced guide teams in the mountain's most technical sections. It is essential to know how to attach yourself and move safely along these ropes. Skills such as handling the jumar (a device used for ascending fixed ropes) and abseiling must be well mastered to avoid accidents.
- Managing crampons: Crampons are an extension of your feet on icy terrain. You need to be able to walk confidently on hard ice, climb steep slopes, and traverse soft snow sections without losing balance. Poor handling of crampons can result in falls or serious injuries.
- Crevasse navigation: Crossing glaciers often means facing crevasses, fissures in the ice that may be invisible beneath snow. Knowing how to use ladders to cross these gaps, how to set up secure anchors, and how to handle crevasse rescue techniques are vital skills for ensuring the team's safety.
These technical skills must not only be acquired, but also practiced regularly on mountains similar to Everest before attempting the ascent. It is important to feel comfortable in all conditions, even when fatigued or stressed.
Experience in high-altitude climbing and mastery of technical skills are essential for facing the unique challenges posed by the Everest ascent. Whether by climbing similar mountains to acclimatize your body to the altitude or perfecting your ice climbing skills, each step of your technical training will prepare you to safely face one of the world's greatest challenges.
4. APPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT.
Climbing Everest requires carefully selected equipment to cope with the mountain's extreme conditions. At such high altitude, freezing temperatures, violent winds, and challenging terrain demand specific clothing and gear to ensure the safety and success of the expedition. Here is a detailed overview of the essential elements to consider.
Suitable clothing.
The weather conditions on Everest can be unforgiving, with temperatures dropping well below -30°C, strong winds, and intense sunlight at high altitude. It is therefore vital to have high-quality, well-fitted thermal clothing to maintain a stable body temperature throughout the ascent.Layering system: One of the key principles is the layering system, which allows you to easily adjust your protection based on conditions. This system consists of three main layers:
- Base layer: It should be made of breathable material, such as merino wool or synthetic fibers, to wick moisture away from the body and keep you dry.
- Insulating mid-layer: This layer, often made of fleece or down, should trap heat to protect against the freezing temperatures at high altitude.
- Waterproof and windproof outer layer: A good Gore-Tex jacket or similar materials protects against snow, wind, and bad weather.
Gloves and hats: Extremities are particularly vulnerable to extreme cold. It is crucial to have insulated gloves with multiple layers, as well as mittens suited to Himalayan temperatures. Similarly, a thick hat that covers the ears is essential, accompanied by a face mask to protect against frostbite.
Specialized footwear: Shoes for climbing Everest must be specifically designed for high-altitude conditions. They should be thermally insulated, crampon-compatible, and waterproof. Double or triple boots (with a removable inner boot) provide extra insulation against the extreme cold at over 8,000 meters.
Investing in high-quality clothing is essential to ensure not only comfort but also safety in the potentially life-threatening conditions encountered on Everest.
Climbing equipment.
Climbing gear is an essential component of the equipment for Everest. The right gear helps overcome technical obstacles and navigate dangerous terrain such as glaciers, rock walls, and snowy slopes.
- Ice axes: A high-altitude ice axe is indispensable for stabilizing yourself on icy slopes and for climbing snow-covered walls. It is important to know how to use it correctly, whether for maintaining balance on a slope or for self-arrest in case of a fall.
- Crampons: Attached to your boots, crampons allow you to walk safely on ice and snowy surfaces. They are essential for sections like the Khumbu Icefall and the steep slopes of the summit ridge. Knowing how to attach and adjust them according to the terrain is a critical skill.
- Ropes and safety systems: Climbing Everest involves the use of fixed ropes, installed by guide teams. It is important to carry additional ropes and master safety techniques such as using a jumar to ascend fixed ropes and abseiling for descents.
- Tents: Conditions on Everest do not allow for improvisation in terms of shelter. It is essential to have tents designed for high-altitude mountaineering, capable of withstanding strong winds, snowstorms, and low temperatures. These tents must be lightweight for easy transport but sturdy enough to provide optimal protection.
- Water filtration systems: Access to clean drinking water is a major challenge at high altitude, where glacier water cannot be consumed without purification. Portable filtration systems or purification tablets are essential to avoid illness and maintain proper hydration.
Oxygen system.
From 7,300 meters (usually starting from Camp 3), most climbers use supplemental oxygen to compensate for the low oxygen pressure in the air. At this altitude, the oxygen in the atmosphere is so thin that the human body struggles to function properly. Using an oxygen system helps prevent serious complications like pulmonary or cerebral edema.Here are some key points to know about this system:
- Oxygen bottles: Climbers carry several oxygen bottles, usually between 3 to 5 bottles, each containing between 1,800 and 3,000 liters of oxygen. These are connected to a face mask by a regulator that controls the flow of oxygen.
- Knowing how to use the regulator: It is crucial to know how to properly adjust the oxygen flow according to your needs. Typically, climbers start with a flow rate of 1 to 3 liters of oxygen per minute, but this can be adjusted depending on physical conditions and altitude.
- Maintenance and transport: Transporting and managing oxygen requires careful planning. The bottles are heavy, and it is essential to accurately calculate the number needed for both the ascent and descent.
Mastering the use of oxygen is a vital skill, as poor management of this system can have serious consequences, ranging from exhaustion to the inability to continue the ascent.
Equipment and logistics play a crucial role in the success of an Everest expedition. Having the right clothing, the appropriate climbing gear, and mastering the use of an oxygen system are essential for facing the mountain's extreme conditions. Careful logistical planning ensures the entire expedition runs safely, from departure to summit.
5. LOGISTICAL PLANNING.
La planification logistique est un aspect fondamental pour réussir une expédition sur l'Everest. Cette étape implique une organisation minutieuse, depuis l'obtention des permis jusqu'à la préparation des repas et la coordination avec des guides professionnels. Une gestion efficace de ces aspects est essentielle pour garantir que chaque partie de l’expédition se déroule en toute sécurité et avec un soutien approprié.
Obtaining permits.
One of the first steps in preparing for your Everest ascent is obtaining permits. Access to the highest peak in the world is strictly regulated, whether from the Nepalese side or the Tibetan (northern) side.
- Nepal Permits: The south side of Everest, located in Nepal, is the most commonly used route for the ascent. The Nepalese government issues climbing permits required for each climber. These permits can cost between 10,000 and 12,000 USD, depending on the season. In addition to the permit, other fees may include rescue taxes, security, and insurance for support teams.
- Tibet Permits: The other main route for Everest is on the Tibetan side, under Chinese control. Climbing permits for Tibet are also expensive, though often slightly less than those for Nepal. However, the northern route is considered more technical and less crowded, making it more challenging for less experienced climbers.
Permits must be obtained well in advance, sometimes several months before the expedition. It is essential to work with an agency or guide who can assist with these administrative procedures to avoid complications. It's also important to consider that permits may be limited, especially due to environmental conditions or government decisions to control the number of climbers.
Booking an expedition.
Climbing Everest is almost never done solo. The majority of climbers join an organized expedition run by agencies specializing in high-altitude mountaineering. These services include experienced guides, sherpas, and all the necessary logistical support.
- Specialized expedition agencies: There are several reputable agencies that offer comprehensive services for climbing Everest. These agencies provide professional guides with extensive experience on Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks. Guides play a crucial role in ensuring your safety, helping you navigate technical challenges, managing routes, and monitoring your acclimatization.
- Sherpas: Sherpas, natives of the Himalayan region, are experts in high-altitude terrain. They play a critical role in the logistics of the climb, including setting up camps, transporting equipment, fixing ropes, and providing physical support to climbers. The assistance of sherpas is often indispensable for a safe ascent.
- Logistics and transport: Agencies also manage the complete logistics of the expedition, including food supplies, tents, gear transport, and supplemental oxygen. The experience and reputation of the agency are crucial, as inadequate logistical support can jeopardize the safety of the expedition.
Choosing an experienced and reliable agency is key to maximizing your chances of success. This includes not only technical assistance but also moral support, optimizing acclimatization strategies, and effective management of unexpected challenges. Additionally, some agencies offer preparation courses in the mountains to ensure that participants are physically and mentally ready to face the challenges of Everest.
Food preparation.
Nutrition plays a crucial role in the success of the ascent, as it helps maintain the energy levels needed to face prolonged efforts at high altitude. Food preparation for Everest must be carefully planned, as altitude conditions make digestion more difficult and loss of appetite is common.Here are some essential points to consider for nutrition:
- High-calorie foods: At altitude, climbers burn thousands of calories each day. It is therefore essential to consume high-calorie foods to avoid exhaustion. Foods like nuts, energy bars, peanut butter, and chocolate are ideal for providing quick energy and are easy to carry.
- Ease of preparation: Above 5,000 meters, cooking becomes difficult, as the thin air slows down cooking time, and freezing temperatures limit the efficiency of cooking equipment. Freeze-dried and dehydrated meals are often used because they are lightweight, easy to prepare with hot water, and provide the necessary caloric intake.
- Hydration: Water is just as crucial as food, if not more. At high altitude, the body loses water quickly due to breathing and sweating. It is essential to consume about 4 to 5 liters of water per day to avoid dehydration, which can worsen altitude sickness symptoms. Preparation includes filtration systems to make glacier water drinkable, as well as electrolyte drinks to maintain mineral balance.
- Supplements: It can be helpful to bring dietary supplements to prevent potential deficiencies and maintain energy levels. Vitamin and mineral supplements (particularly iron and magnesium), as well as protein powders, can help maintain muscles and support essential body functions.
Careful planning of nutrition is a key factor in maintaining the strength and endurance needed throughout the ascent. Additionally, it is recommended to test meals in advance to ensure they are well tolerated and provide enough satisfaction and enjoyment during a time when appetite may be lacking.
Logistical planning is an essential phase that includes obtaining permits, booking an expedition with a specialized agency, and careful food preparation. This meticulous organization ensures maximum support, both in terms of safety and comfort, throughout the ascent of Everest. The key to success lies in coordinating equipment, human support, and resource management to overcome the extreme challenges of the mountain.
6. RISK MANAGEMENT.
Climbing Everest presents considerable risks that should never be underestimated. It is crucial to fully understand these dangers and prepare to face them with appropriate strategies. Poor risk management can have serious, even fatal, consequences on a mountain as unpredictable and hostile as Everest. The awareness of high-altitude mountaineering dangers and first aid training are essential to ensure the safety of both yourself and the members of the expedition.
Awareness of dangers.
The dangers associated with climbing Everest are numerous and varied, ranging from natural disasters to physiological problems related to extreme altitude. Having a good understanding of these risks and knowing how to avoid or respond to them is essential for maximizing your chances of success while minimizing dangers.Here are the main risks to anticipate:
- Avalanches: Avalanches are one of the most feared natural hazards on Everest, especially in the Khumbu Icefall region. They can be triggered spontaneously due to snow accumulation or changes in weather. It is therefore crucial to have a good understanding of the weather and to recognize the warning signs of an avalanche. During high-risk sections, it is imperative to follow the instructions of the guides and sherpas, who monitor these phenomena.
- Ice falls: In sections like the Khumbu Icefall, blocks of ice weighing several tons can detach at any moment, posing an immediate danger to climbers. It is essential to minimize the time spent in these areas and always be ready to react quickly. Good belaying techniques and strict coordination within the team help reduce the risk of serious injuries in these environments.
- Crevasse falls: Crevasses are deep cracks in glaciers, often hidden beneath fragile snow bridges. Crossing glaciers requires a thorough understanding of roping and anchoring techniques to ensure group safety. A good practice is to always remain roped up when crossing risky areas and to master crevasse rescue techniques in case of a fall.
- Altitude sickness (or acute mountain sickness): This physiological risk is one of the most common and dangerous at high altitudes. Altitude sickness occurs when the body fails to acclimatize quickly enough to the thinning oxygen. Symptoms can range from headaches and nausea to pulmonary or cerebral edema, which can be fatal without treatment. It is crucial to closely monitor signs of altitude sickness in yourself and your teammates and to take necessary actions, including descending quickly to a lower altitude if severe symptoms occur.
- Hypothermia: The freezing temperatures on Everest, combined with the wind and altitude, greatly increase the risk of hypothermia. It is essential to always be well-equipped and to avoid excessive sweating, as moisture can quickly freeze, leading to heat loss. Knowing the early signs of hypothermia (uncontrollable shivering, confusion, loss of coordination) and how to react is vital.
- Fatigue and exhaustion: Continuous physical exertion, lack of oxygen, and the prolonged duration of the ascent expose climbers to a high risk of exhaustion. It is essential to manage your energy, take enough breaks, and be prepared to turn back if fatigue becomes overwhelming. Pushing your body beyond its limits at such altitude can be fatal.
The best way to manage these dangers is to be ready to turn back if conditions become too dangerous. Everest should not be climbed at all costs. Having the humility to accept descending to ensure safety is often the best decision you can make in high-altitude mountaineering.
First aid training.
An Everest expedition also requires extensive first aid training, specifically adapted to high altitude and extreme conditions. At altitude, injuries and illnesses can worsen quickly, and it is often impossible to obtain medical help in a timely manner. Proper first aid preparation can save lives while waiting for professional rescue.Here are the essential skills to master:
- First aid at altitude: High altitude presents unique conditions, and it is important to undergo specialized training to understand the specifics of injuries and illnesses at this altitude. This includes managing pulmonary or cerebral edema, which require rapid descent and oxygen administration, as well as handling respiratory issues and dehydration.
- Managing hypothermia: First aid training must also include the management of hypothermia. Knowing how to warm a person with hypothermia is crucial, particularly by using thermal blankets, dry clothing, and gradual warming methods. Quick intervention is essential to prevent hypothermia from progressing to fatal shock.
- Treating injuries: Falls, cuts, and fractures are common risks on rugged terrain like Everest. Knowing how to immobilize a fracture, clean a wound to avoid infection, or stabilize a person after a fall is fundamental. It is also important to carry a well-equipped first aid kit, including bandages, antiseptics, wraps, and basic medications like pain relievers and anti-inflammatories.
- Communication systems: In addition to emergency care skills, it is essential to have reliable communication methods to request help in case of an accident. Satellite phones or high-frequency radios allow you to stay in contact with base camps or rescue teams, even in remote areas of the mountain.
- Improvisation skills: In the mountains, it’s not always possible to have all the medical equipment on hand. It is useful to learn how to improvise in emergencies, such as using trekking poles to make a splint or clothing as compresses.
At high altitude, medical decisions must be made quickly and decisively. Proper first aid training, combined with a well-equipped medical kit, can make the difference between life and death in such extreme conditions.
The risk management on Everest is a fundamental element for ensuring the expedition’s safety. Good knowledge of natural dangers, such as avalanches, ice falls, and altitude sickness, is crucial for reacting quickly and effectively. Additionally, first aid training specialized for altitude is essential to handle medical emergencies in this extreme environment. By combining technical preparation, humility in the face of risks, and emergency management skills, it is possible to maximize the chances of success while minimizing dangers on this formidable mountain.
7. ACCLIMATIZATION AND TIMING.
The management of acclimatization and timing is essential for a successful Everest ascent. Progression at high altitude must be slow and well-planned to allow the body to adapt to the thinning oxygen and reduce the risks of acute mountain sickness. Additionally, the timing of the summit attempt must align with favorable weather windows, as weather conditions can change rapidly and become dangerous.
Progression lente.
The ascent of Everest cannot be completed quickly due to the physiological constraints imposed by extreme altitude. Above 8,000 meters, the available oxygen is significantly reduced, making every movement more difficult and requiring the body to gradually adapt. This is why the ascent is typically planned over several weeks, from 6 to 9 weeks, to allow for proper acclimatization.Here are some key points regarding slow progression:Acclimatization process: Acclimatization is the process by which the body adapts to lower atmospheric pressure and decreased available oxygen. When properly managed, it helps to avoid the risks of altitude sickness, pulmonary or cerebral edema. By following a gradual ascent, you allow your body to produce more red blood cells, increasing its oxygen transport capacity.Progressive ascent and descents: One of the essential principles of acclimatization is to climb high and descend to sleep at a lower altitude. This allows your body to adapt to higher altitudes without being exposed too long to extremely low oxygen levels. Therefore, the ascent is done in stages: you reach a higher camp, descend for the night, and then gradually climb higher.Rest days: During the ascent, it is crucial to include several rest days in the schedule to allow your body to recover and acclimatize. These rest days are often planned in camps located between 5,000 and 6,500 meters, such as the base camp or camp 2. During these days, it's important to continue hydrating, eating enough, and monitoring for any signs of altitude sickness.Phases of the ascent: The ascent of Everest is divided into several camps, with each stage requiring a gradual climb to a higher altitude. Here is a typical example of an acclimatization schedule:
- Base camp (5,364 m): Climbers usually spend several days here to acclimatize to the altitude and train in using the equipment.
- Camp 1 (6,065 m): The first major ascent through the Khumbu Icefall. After spending time at camp 1, climbers often descend to the base camp before continuing.
- Camp 2 (6,400 m): This area is used for prolonged acclimatization, with several ascents and descents between camps 2 and 3.
- Camp 3 (7,200 m): Oxygen begins to be used at this altitude. After one or two nights at camp 3, climbers descend to the base camp to rest before the final summit push.
- Camp 4 (7,920 m): The final assault camp, located in the "death zone," where oxygen levels are so low that extended stays are dangerous.
By adopting a slow and controlled progression, you optimize your chances of reaching the summit without compromising your safety. Forcing the ascent too quickly can increase the risk of serious altitude-related complications.
Weather windows.
On Everest, weather plays a crucial role in the success or failure of the ascent. The weather conditions are extremely unstable and can change dramatically in just a few hours, turning a promising climb into a potentially deadly scenario. This is why it is essential to carefully monitor the weather forecasts and plan the final ascent during a favorable weather window.Here are some important points to consider for managing timing based on weather conditions:
The importance of weather forecasts: Everest expeditions are always accompanied by professional meteorologists who provide daily reports from base camp. These reports help guides determine the safest weather windows for the summit attempt. Climbers must be ready to adjust their schedule according to these forecasts, sometimes staying longer than expected at high-altitude camps, waiting for favorable conditions.The two main climbing seasons: There are two key periods for attempting to climb Everest:
- Spring (April-May): This is the most common climbing season. It offers more stable weather after the end of winter, before the onset of the monsoon, and relatively milder temperatures at the summit.
- Autumn (September-October): Although less crowded, this period is also favorable for the climb, after the end of the monsoon. However, temperatures may be colder, and snow conditions more challenging.
The dangers of bad weather: Weather conditions can include snowstorms, violent winds reaching 160 km/h or more, and extreme temperature drops that can lead to hypothermia. An unanticipated storm or winds that are too strong at the summit can make both the ascent and descent impossible and extremely dangerous. Additionally, heavy snowfall increases the risk of avalanches and can make trails impassable.Flexibility and patience: One of the keys to reaching the summit is being flexible and ready to wait for an ideal weather window. Many climbers have failed due to poor timing, trying to force the ascent despite unfavorable conditions. Sometimes, it is necessary to spend several extra days at camp 4 or descend to lower camps to wait for the winds to calm and conditions to improve.Final ascent window: The window for the final ascent from camp 4 to the summit is often limited to just a few days per year, typically in May. It is important to seize this opportunity and start the ascent in good conditions. The best summit windows offer clear skies, low winds, and tolerable temperatures.
In summary, managing acclimatization and the timing of the final ascent is a crucial factor in the success of climbing Everest. Taking the time to properly acclimatize and waiting for a favorable weather window can make all the difference between reaching the summit or having to turn back. The key is patience, flexibility, and constant monitoring of the weather and the physical condition of the climbers.
WHAT NUTRITION IS NEEDED TO PREPARE YOUR BODY FOR SUCH AN ASCENT?
1. Increase your carbohydrate stores.
Carbohydrates are the primary energy source for muscles during a prolonged ascent.
- 2-3 days before the ascent, increase your carbohydrate intake to build glycogen reserves. Consume foods such as brown rice, pasta, potatoes, quinoa, and whole grain bread.
- Complex carbohydrates ensure a slow release of energy, which is essential for sustained and long effort.
2. Proteins for muscle recovery.
Proteins are essential for maintaining muscle mass and promoting recovery after intense efforts.
- Include lean protein sources such as chicken, fish, eggs, tofu, and legumes in every meal in the days leading up to the ascent.
- Combine proteins and carbohydrates for better absorption and long-lasting energy.
3. Hydration.
Proper hydration is crucial, especially before heading to high altitude, where dry air accelerates dehydration.
- Increase your water intake in the days before the ascent. You can also consume electrolyte drinks to maintain mineral balance.
- Limit diuretic drinks like coffee or alcohol.
4. Healthy fats.
Fats are an important long-term energy source, especially during prolonged efforts.
- Include healthy fat sources like avocados, nuts, seeds, and olive oil. These fats will help sustain energy during long days in the mountains.
5. Avoid hard-to-digest foods.
Saturated fats, spicy foods, and processed products should be avoided right before the ascent, as they can cause bloating and slow digestion, making you uncomfortable during the effort.
6. Last meal before the ascent.
The last meal before the ascent, which should take place about 3 hours before departure, should be light and easy to digest, while providing a good energy source.
- An example meal could include oatmeal with fruit, yogurt, a bit of honey, and nuts. This combination provides carbohydrates, proteins, and healthy fats to fuel your effort.
In summary, in the days leading up to the ascent, make sure to consume plenty of complex carbohydrates, enough proteins, healthy fats, and stay well-hydrated. A good balance of these nutrients will give you the energy needed to perform throughout the effort without being weighed down or slowed by digestive issues.
SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT THE EVEREST ASCENT:
How long does it take to climb Everest?
The ascent takes about 60 days, including acclimatization and waiting for favorable weather conditions. Acclimatization is a crucial process for adapting to extreme altitude.
How much does it cost?
The cost can range from 30,000 to 100,000 USD per person, depending on the expedition agency, included services (guides, sherpas, equipment, etc.), permits, and other logistical expenses.
What are the main risks?
The biggest dangers include avalanches, ice falls, crevasse falls, and complications related to altitude sickness. Unpredictable weather also poses a major risk.
Is it possible to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen?
Yes, but it is extremely dangerous. Only about 5% of climbers who reach the summit do so without oxygen, and attempts without oxygen have a very low success rate.
When is the best time to climb Everest?
The best times to attempt the ascent are in May (spring) and sometimes in September-October (autumn), just after the monsoon, when the weather is more favorable.
COACH'S TIPS
- Here, we have examined the ascent of Everest, as it is the roof of the world, but every mountaineering climb must be prepared with the same rigor. One mistake too many and it's an accident, and in mountaineering, accidents rarely forgive.
- The more difficult the mountain, the more important it is to have tested yourself on other mountains first.
Yves Bondroit coach for QNT